A public interest litigation (PIL) has been filed in the Bombay High Court by intellectual property advocate Ganesh Hingmire against Italian fashion brand Prada. The petition demands monetary compensation for Indian artisans, accusing the brand of copying the design of traditional Kolhapuri chappals. According to Hingmire, Prada only acknowledged Indian inspiration after facing backlash, and that too in a private communication—not to the artisans, the government, or the GI Registry.
Cultural Symbol with Legal Recognition
Kolhapuri chappals are considered a cultural icon of Maharashtra and were granted Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2019. Hingmire stressed that the design holds deep public sentiment and must be protected from misuse. He also criticised Prada for not offering a formal apology or any compensation.
Demands for Collaboration and Revenue Sharing
The petitioner has proposed that Prada be legally directed to collaborate with artisan groups through a court-supervised partnership. This includes co-branding, capacity building, and sharing of revenues generated from the design. Hingmire argued that expecting fragmented artisan groups to pursue individual legal action against a major global fashion brand is unfair.
Ongoing Concerns About Cultural Appropriation
The controversy has triggered wider criticism of international fashion labels for using traditional Indian designs without credit. Dior has also come under fire recently for showcasing a coat in Paris featuring “mukaish” embroidery from Lucknow without acknowledging Indian artisans. The issue has highlighted ongoing problems with cultural appropriation and lack of recognition.
Legal Opinions on GI Violation
Some legal experts believe the case against Prada may face challenges. Senior lawyer Ameet Naik noted that although the sandals resemble Kolhapuri chappals, Prada could argue there is no misrepresentation. A case of “passing off” may be possible, but a direct GI infringement may not be strong unless intentional misuse is proven.
Political Support for Artisans
Karnataka Minister Priyank Kharge weighed in, saying artisans from Karnataka’s Belagavi, Bagalkot, and Dharwad districts have crafted Kolhapuri chappals for generations. He urged investment in artisan development, branding, and global exposure. Kharge criticised Prada for profiting from the design—selling similar sandals for ₹1.2 lakh—while the original artisans continue to work with limited resources and recognition.
Calls for Fair Credit and Opportunities
The Minister emphasized the need to credit the artisans, not just adopt their designs. He said these craftsmen deserve more than acknowledgment—they deserve better earnings, recognition, and access to global markets for their work. The PIL aims to set a precedent that protects traditional Indian craftsmanship from being exploited by global brands.
